- Do not exceed the recommend line rating or drag rating for your rod.
- Never ‘High Stick’ your rod – Over bending your rod when fighting or landing a fish is commonly referred to high sticking. Always maintain a maximum load angle of 45 – 60 degrees when fighting a fish and these parameters should never be exceeded.
- If your lure or rig becomes snagged always keep the rod pointed towards the snag and walk backwards keeping tension on the line. More than likely you will lose your tackle, but you cannot break your rod with this procedure.
- Like a diamond, carbon fibre rods are incredibly strong but can be brittle – Be careful not to drop or hit them on hard surfaces. It may also seem a bit obvious, but many expensive rods have been damaged by ceiling fans and car doors.
- Fishing rods are designed to evenly distribute the stress over the entire rod blank – Never place your hand high above the reel seat to assist the rod, as this will increase stress and cause the rod to break. Always maintain a maximum load angle of 45 – 60 degrees and never high stick it.
- Graphite carbon rods are excellent conductors of electricity – Never use a carbon fibre fishing rod during an electrical storm or near power lines.
- After using your fishing rod in a saltwater environment, always wash your rod well with fresh clean water as soon as you can and pay attention to the guide rings and reel seat. You can use apply light reel grease on the guide metal – but use it sparingly.
- Use caution when transporting your rod and always disassemble it and place the rod in the rod case during transport.
- Use caution when winding your line in and never pull the swivel through the guide tip as this will damage the guide ring.
- Check all guide rings for hair line cracks or chips – replace immediately if damaged
When their favorite lakes and streams are covered by ice, some fishermen choose to put away their tackle for the winter. Other anglers, however, exchange their regular rods for ice fishing tackle to pursue their quarry through holes drilled through the ice. Successful ice fishing requires some adjustment to the tackle and techniques you use for open water fishing, starting with the type of rod you use and how you rig it. The following steps describe how to select and rig an ice fishing rod and reel.
Method 1. Choosing an Ice Fishing Rod
1. Choose a rod shorter than you use for open water fishing. While you can ice fish with a rod the same length as you normally use for open water fishing, most fishermen prefer to use a shorter rod; since baits are dropped through holes bored in the ice rather than cast, the extra length isn't necessary. A shorter rod is also an advantage in the tight quarters of most ice fishing shacks. A typical ice fishing rod is 3 to 4 feet (0.9 to 1.2 m) in length and thinner overall than a rod used for open water fishing.
2.Choose a sensitive rod. Because fish move more slowly in cold water, they usually do not hit baits or artificial lures as aggressively as they do in warmer water. You'll want a rod made from graphite or boron fiber to better help you sense the light taps you're likely to feel when a fish takes your bait.
3. Choose the right rod action for your presentation. The right rod action can help you present your bait or lure more effectively when ice fishing. A fast tip will impart more action to your lure when vertical jigging, which can be helpful on days when fish are more aggressive, typically toward the end of winter as fish forage more to prepare for spring spawning. A light or slow action will produce a subtler, more fluid action better suited to more lethargic fish. It can be helpful to use both kinds of rods and switch between them as necessary.
Method 2. Choosing the Reel and Line
1. Choose a reel suited for ultralight fishing. Because fish are cold-blooded, they are usually less active during the winter months than in summer and therefore do not put up as much of a fight as in warmer weather, so it usually isn't necessary to use heavy lines when ice fishing. A spinning or spincast reel with a good quality gear system and drag will work well when ice fishing.
2. Choose a light test or class line. Lines of 2 to 6 pound test (1 to 3 kg class) are usually the best choice for ice fishing. Most ice fishermen spool their reels regular nylon monofilament line, although some favor lines specially designed for ice fishing.
Method 3. Rigging Your Line
1. Use tiny jigs for panfish. Bluegill, crappie, and other panfish eat tiny insects and plankton during the winter months. Jigs of 1/16 ounce (1.77 g) or less simulate these tiny food items.
4. Consider sweetening your lure with some live bait. Although ice fishermen more commonly use live bait when fishing with tip-ups, some add tiny minnows to swimming lures or small pieces of fish underbelly meat to a spoon. The fish meat adds a natural smell and taste that the artificial lure alone can't provide and makes finicky fish more likely to take the bait.
5. Add a spring bobber for a more fluid lure or bait action. A spring bobber is a small bobber that attaches to the line by means of a spring wound around one of its projections. The bobber's buoyancy helps to smooth out the jerkiness of jigging small jigs, spoons, and swimming lures up and down and also helps detect when fish take the bait. This aspect can be useful when wearing gloves while fishing or in other situations where it's necessary to rely on sight instead of touch to detect when you have a bite.
By Massimo Magliocco
Being a fly rod designer for many years, I want to give some advice to those who have to buy a fly rod. One of the elements that often make the neophyte "crazy" but also the expert fisherman, is to understand if a rod has the right features to make it a good fly rod. Questions like these: "what kind of features has to have a 9' rod to fish in a creek ? Or "which rod is the best ?" and so on. It is easy to read it everywhere.
Who knows me, knows that I was lucky to have two masters who have taught me so much about fly rods, one is Aldo Silva who is the greatest Italian expert regarding how to make a fly rod. He knows everything about carbons and resines and what is the best way to combine them together. The other one is Roberto Pragliola a big name about Italian fly casting technique who was my master too. He is the greatest expert in Italy regarding the connection between rod and cast.
Having had in these last fifteen years these two "masters" as friends with whom I spent a lot of time to talk about rods and also experiment on them, I behaved like a sponge absorbing all that both, separately, they explained me understanding all details about rods conception. So one day I started putting everything learned together and get a thorough understanding on the subject concerning fly rods. So let's see how we can understand if a fly rod works well for our needs.
The first elements to be evaluated are:
1) Where and what type of fishing we want to do
2) What weight of line we want to use
3) Choice of rod length
Many fishermen orient themselves on brands that they know or choose a rod that has a beautiful cosmetic. In these cases, a first mistake is often made because the choices are made emotionally and not analyzing the rod quality.
From a dynamic point of view, it is necessary to know well what are the three components that delineate a rod's features, they are:
3) action, (the most important one)
These components have a priority in relation to the various types of rods, in other words one component is more important in a short rod, another in a long one and so on.
The rapidity is nothing more than the time that a rod has to return to the initial position, in a more or less short time, after giving it a thrust. One rod will be faster than another one if this time is lower than the other.
In the modern casting style, rapidity has great importance since this involves very fast casting operations. Hence a tool that adapts better to the operations of the cast and that is able to greatly speed up the line, this last very important element.
It is clear that the rapidity alone is not enough since it must be added to the other component, the action, even if both of them work together. This is a concept that we will see later.
For longer rods which are designed to be able to cast heavier lines, the rapidity will be less pronounced since the most important element will be the power.
In fact, a long rod calibrated to cast lines weight 8 - 9 and more, must necessarily have very different casting timing than a shorter rod as well as being more powerful for obvious reasons. The power of a rod is the element that characterizes its strength.
In other words, the energy that a rod can accumulate and then return during the cast, can be defined as power.
The third component, the action, has a great importance in a rod because being the curve of the rod when it is loaded, inevitably also affects the other two. In fact a rod has its rapidity and its power, but both must submit the action because a rod will not be speed if it has parabolic action, or it may not be powerful if it has a tip action.
Nowadays casting technique has inevitably produced an evolution of the equipment and first of all of the curves.
A curve for a fast rod, must be built with material that facilitates this feature, and besides must be progressive, a generic word that many fishermen cannot understand. This means that this kind of curve takes shape proportionally to the weight of the line out of the tip of the rod.
What does this mean ? It means that with a little line out the tip of the rod, only the tip gets curved, but increasing the line out of the tip, the curve will increase progressively. This will give the line a constant increase in speed which is our goal.
That said, how do we test a rod to evaluate its features ?
Let see it
Tighten the handle of the rod with one hand and with the other hand push the palm on the butt going, at the same time, from the cork to the stripping guide. Discard all those rods that have a stiff butt that does not bend and those rods with the butt too soft that goes down suddenly. The right butt is the one that bends under the palm but with a little difficulty. The butt is the most important part of the rod. This is the first test that must be done but this is not enough. We must continue with the tests. For example, if a rod is line weight 3, we must test it with line weight 2 and line weight 4.
The rod will have to load with both lines, but it will be with the weight 3 that the rod will give the best results.
If this does not happen it means that the rod has not been calibrated well from the factory.
Then we test the tip. For this test we use a line weight 3, 5 meters' leader, 2 meters' line out of the tip. We will only do the false casts and we will have to feel that the tip loads well and we will have to see a good shape of the loop and the leader will be stretched.
If this not happened the tip wasn't work well. Usually in this case it is too soft so we have to discard the rod.
We have already done the test of the butt with the palm of the hand, now we have to test it with a cast. I know that many fishermen do not know casts used to load the butt, for example the low parallel cast or the superimposed cast, and this does not allow them to test the butt, who wants can read how to do this cast here: http: //www.massimomagliocco .co.uk / index.php / 232-2 /
Finally, remember to avoid buying a rod only for its cosmetic or for its blazoned name.
These two elements can be important but you must remember that they cannot be so important as the action. Fly fishing is a beautifull technique but the most important element to get it fantastic is to cast in the best way, but to do it you have to have a good rod. So, let me finish with a my saying "you can't forget that you can have the best fly tied with the best materials but if you cannot put it in the right place and in the best way, then it no serves purpose.
Most graphite, carbon fiber, or fiberglass fishing rods are so strong you can fight a big fish with a light rod, but so fragile a nick can lead to breakage. If you know how to maintain a fishing rod, you can extend the life of your rod, keep the fishing line from breaking mid-fight, and keep the rod's performance at the optimal level.
Method 1 Maintaining the Rod1
1.Fish with the guides aligned to reduce wear on your line. The guides are the metal rings that hold the line to the rod.
Check for rust on the guide rings and the reel seat -- where the reel attaches. If there is rust, replace the guide ring. Sand rust off the reel seat with fine sandpaper and repaint.
2. Avoid banging your rod on the boat, rocks or other surfaces. Rods are relatively fragile, and even small nicks or scratches can result in breakage.
3. Clean your rod with a cloth, lukewarm water and vinegar or mild detergent every time you finish fishing. If your rod is soiled, remove the dirt with a soft-bristle brush or a toothbrush. Allow the rod to dry completely before putting it away.
4. Rub the rod's joints with candle wax or paraffin to prevent friction. The joints, also known as ferrules, are the places where the separate sections of the rod join.
5. Wear gloves while you fish if your rod has a cork handle. Oils in your skin may cause the cork to wear out sooner.
6. Fill small holes with a mixture of cork filings and wood glue or wood putty.
Method 2 Storing the Rod.
1. Store your rod on a rod rack that can be mounted vertically or horizontally.Storing a rod improperly may result in damage or curvature. If you do not have a rack, store the rod on a hanger or nail in a closet.
It is better not to store your rod in a rod tube, as tubes trap moisture, which can corrode the guide rings, the reel or the reel seat.
2. Loosen the drag before storing your rod and reel so the line does not break or pull on the rod.
3. Remove the fishing line from your rod and reel before storage if you have been fishing in saltwater.
Perhaps nothing you do while you're fishing puts you under as much pressure as netting someone else's fish, especially if you are in a tournament. If you have to make several tries, or if you accidentally enable the fish to escape, you'll never be allowed to forget it. Know how to scoop up Mr. Fish before you go out.
1. Be prepared to be netting for someone else. Most of the time when a net is required, you will be netting for someone else. When your partner gets a fish on, be ready to drop what you are doing and get the net.
2. Reel your own line in as quickly as you can. If you just set the rod down, you are going to lose it.
3. Wait until you are asked before getting the net. If the angler just wants to swing the fish over the side, you'll be in the way if you are standing there with a big net.
4. Once the angler has requested the net, grab it and make sure it is ready. Some nets have collapsible handles, so make sure that the net is completely secure and ready for service.
5. Once you have determined which side of the boat the fish will be coming to, get the net into the water. Submerge as much of the rim of the net as you can, but leave some of it out so that the angler can clearly see where he needs to get the fish.
6. Do not jab at the fish with the net. Simply leave the net in the water and allow the angler to lead it in.
7. Turn the net so that it offers the largest possible entry to the fish.
8. As soon as the fish is past the rim of the net, lift it out with a slight scooping motion. If the fish is large, do not scoop, rather hold the handle of the net in a vertical fashion and lift the net out of the water.
9. Bring the net into the boat. Don't place it on the front or back deck where the fish could get back into the water with a single leap. The bottom of the boat is much safer
Choosing a fishing rod may seem overwhelming, but selecting the right rod is no different from finding the right pair of shoes. Depending on what kind of fishing you will be doing, there are many parameters to help guide you towards the right fishing rod for your lifestyle. Ultimately, fishing rods come in so many models and styles because each is designed for a different kind of fisherman. Figure out what fishing rod is best for you based on your specific needs, and you will be on your way to making a quality purchase.
Method 1. Understanding Fishing Rod Measurements and Specifications
1. Choose a length. The length of a rod is measured from the tip all the way to the end of the butt. Fishing rods range in length from about four feet all the way up to fourteen feet. Larger rods often dissemble into several pieces for easier transportation. Depending on where you will be fishing and what you will be fishing for, you will need to choose a rod length.
2. Decide on a weight. The weight of a rod tells you how much weight it can carry, and therefore how strong it is. Depending on what lures or bait you will be using, you will need a specific strength rod.
3. Understand the action. The action of a rod is the point on the rod where it bends. This measurement can range from "ultra light" to "heavy". A heavy action means it bends closer to the tip while a lighter action bends closer to the butt of the rod.
4. Decide on a material. Fishing rods are made of graphite, fiberglass, or a combination of both materials. The material that your rod is made of is related to its functionality and the kind of fishing that you will be doing.
5. Choose a reel. Rods are also determined by what kind of reel you will be using. Reels are either spinning or casting. The different kinds of reels correspond to a fisherman's different needs.
Method 2. Shopping for a Rod That Fits Your Needs
1. Choose where to buy your rod. Where you buy your rod will greatly determine the quality and value you get for your rod. While it is tempting to shop for the best deal, make sure you are visiting a specialty sporting goods store where they will have a wide selection of fishing rods. A smaller store will allow you to have a greater rapport with a salesperson or specialist if you have questions.
2. Determine what level fisherman you are. If you are a beginner and planning of fishing less frequently, consider buying a less expensive rod. If you are more seasoned, consider investing in something that will last longer.
3. Determine where you will be fishing. If you are traveling to fish, it may be wise to buy a fishing rod that breaks down into several pieces. If you have a boat or will be fishing nearby, you may only need to purchase a rod that remains in one piece.
4. Decide what kind of bait you will be using. In fishing, you are either using live bait, referred to as casting, or lures. A casting fisherman may want a more sensitive rod in order to be able to feel each small movement in the water. A lure fisherman may prefer a stiffer rod to be able to manipulate the rod and imitate the movement of the prey. Decide which technique you would like to use when choosing a rod.
Method 3. Determining the Quality of Your Fishing Rod
1. Hold the rod in your hand. Comfort is an important factor when choosing a fishing rod and a rod may feel different in different people's hands.
2. Check for defects. Look for any cracks or poor workmanship in the rod. Defects may make it more likely for the rod to break in the future. If the rod breaks down into more than one piece, attach the pieces in the store and make sure they attach securely with no wiggle room.
3. Check the guides. The guides are the loops that attach the line to the rod. They may be made of any kind of metal or ceramic. The more guides there are the better quality the rod, as the line is more controlled by the rod.
Fish have several means to detect their prey. Their sense of smell is thought by some scientists to be 1 million times more sensitive than the human sense of smell. Their sense of hearing uses their inner ears and lateral lines (a row of auditory and pressure sensors down the middle of either side of their bodies) to detect both sound and vibration, which travel faster in water than in air. Fishermen remain divided over the ability of fish to see color under water and its relative importance when fishing, particularly when fly fishing. Fish do perceive color underwater, though; the following steps cover how fish can see color and how you can use color effectively when fly fishing.
1. Understanding How Fish See Color
1. Know how fishes' eyes are structured. Human retinas contain two kinds of receptor cells, rods, and cones. Rods enable us to distinguish light from darkness and to see at lower levels of light, while cones function in brighter light and enable us to see colors. Fish eyes also contain both rods and cones, allowing them to see in color, with the proportion of rods to cones dependent on whether the fish inhabits relatively shallow or deep water.
2. Understand how water depth affects light penetration. Light is divided into various wavelengths. Longer wavelengths of light, such as red and orange, are absorbed quickly in water and therefore penetrate to a shallow depth. At a depth of 10 feet (3 m), red lights is almost completely absorbed, and at 30 feet (9.1 m), orange and yellow light is mostly absorbed. Shorter wavelengths of light, such as green and blue penetrate to a much greater depth, and scatter more, explaining why bodies of water appear blue or greenish from above.
2. Choosing the Right Fly Color
1. Choose fly color according to how bright the sky is. The maxim for freshwater fishing lures is "light day, light color; dark day, dark color." This is more commonly applied to jigs, plastic worms, and crankbaits than to artificial flies, but it can be a factor with them, as well.
2. Choose fly colors according to how clear the water is. Subtle color shades, such as maroon, indigo, and purple can be effective when fly-fishing in clear water. Fluorescent orange, yellow, and chartreuse flies can be effective when fished in muddy water or other conditions when fish having a harder time seeing the fly, as can black and red.
4. Choose colors that match those of foods fish feed on. Although they are called flies, dry and wet flies may also imitate minnows and crustaceans that fish feed on.
Article by Joe Cermele Photograph by Joe Cermele
Just because the sun goes down doesn’t mean the species you love to catch go to bed. In fact, sometimes the biggest fish in the pond, lake, or river don’t eat at all until nightfall. Catching them past sunset requires some minor tweaks to your daytime tactics. These three will get you startednight stalking.
BassBoth largemouths and smallmouths stay active all night, especially when there’s a full moon to shed some light. Aside from planning an attack around the lunar calendar, fishing after dark is a prime time to bust a heavy bucketmouth or bronzeback on the surface. Opt for lures like the Jitterbug, which makes a lot of noise as it’s slowly retrieved. The slower the retrieve, the more time a bass has to track and smack the lure. Be sure to give the fish a chance to turn and dive before setting the hook.
TroutBig brown trout will hunker down all day and go on the feed after sundown. Now is the time to throwlarge streamers and stickbaits in dark colors. Remember that at night, fish see lure profiles, not colors, and dark colors produce better silhouettes. Stickbaits that rattle, and streamers with bulkier hair heads, will produce more vibration underwater, making it easier for big trout to home in. Work in slow twitches and strips, and set on any tap.
PanfishBluegills and crappies will happily chow down in the dark, especially near a light source. Light attracts small baitfish and bugs, providing a late-night feast for panfish. Fixed dock lights are magnets, but if you can’t find one, pick up a portable floating light designed specifically for nighttime crappie fishing. Once you attract some bait to the light, work jigs from outside the range of the glow to inside. The biggest panfish often hang out just beyond the light’s reach.
Global Fishing Tackle
The Fishing Rod: Parts & Terms
The Fishing Reel: Types of Fishing Reels
Fishing With Live Bait
Fishing With Prepared Baits
Types of Fishing Lures
Understanding Fish Senses
Which Rod and Reel Should I Buy? – Your First Rod & Reel
Two Knots You Absolutely Need to Know
How to Assemble a Spinning Reel and Rod?
How to Load Line on a Spinning Reel
How to Set the Drag on a Spinning Reel
How to Cast Your Spinning Rod
How to Find Fish
How to Play and Land a Fish
How to Keep and Clean Your Fish
How to Fish a Small Creek
How to Fish for Flounder
How to Make a Topwater Lure for Saltwater Fishing
How to Take Children Fishing
How to Be a Good Fisherman
How to Become a Professional Fisherman
How to Become a Fishing Guide
How to Begin Ice Fishing (USA)
How to Cast Baitcasting Tackle
How to Cast a Bait Caster or Spinning Rod
How to Cast a Fly Fishing Rod
How to Cast Spinning Tackle
How to Catch Bass on Topwater Lures
How to Catch a Carp
How to Catch a Muskie
How to Catch Fish in a Lake
How to Catch a Catfish
How to Catch a Snipe
How to Catch Blackfish
How to Catch Bullhead Catfish
How to Catch Freshwater Fish
How to Catch Sunfish
How to Catch Large Mouth Bass
How to Fight a Fish
How to Catch Striped Bass
How to Select a Fishing Rod
How to Fish for Bass
How to Choose Fishing Line
How to Fix a Broken Fishing Rod
How to Cast With a Surf Rod on a Beach
How to Equip for Ice Fishing
Purchase fishing tackle from us, help you earn more money
How to Learn Fly Fishing
How to Catch White Sea Bass
How to Fish (for Beginners)
How to Find the Best Time for Fishing
How to Catch Bass, Trout, and Panfish After Dark
How to Use Color When Fly Fishing
Share some photos at ETTEX 2016
How to Choose a Fishing Rod
How to Net a Fish
How to Maintain a Fishing Rod