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How to Fix a Broken Fishing Rod?

4/27/2015

Once made principally of cane or bamboo, most fishing rods today are made of fiberglass, graphite, or boron composite. Although the newer materials are more resilient, modern fishing rods still can break, but in most cases, a broken fishing rod can be repaired. The following steps describe how to fix a broken fishing rod and replace broken rod guides.

Method 1 of 3: Fixing a Broken Rod Blank

1. Determine where the break occurred. Where the rod broke determines what you'll do next.

If the rod broke near the tip, you'll either have to replace the tip top/tip ring or cut the broken tip and put a new, larger tip top on the rod. See "Fixing a Broken Rod Tip" for details.

If the rod broke somewhere else, you'll have to cut out the break and insert a ferrule.

2. Cut off the frayed ends of the break. Trim the ends until each is neat and square.

3. Measure the diameter of each cut piece. You'll need these diameters to find the right size of ferrule to buy.

4. Glue the male ferrule end to the end of the rod that includes the rod tip. You can use an epoxy resin glue that sets as fast as 5 minutes, although some professional rod repairers prefer a 2-part epoxy that takes longer to cure to allow more time to position the ferrule correctly.

Don't separate the male and female ferrule until finished with this procedure.

5. Glue the female ferrule to the end of the rod that includes the rod handle. Allow the cement to dry thoroughly before continuing.

If the break occurred near a rod guide or the reel seat, the rod's action will be largely unaffected. If the break occurred elsewhere in the middle of the blank, the ferrule will dampen the action, particularly if it is a metal ferrule.

6. Cover the area where the ferrules meet the rod blank with epoxy. You want to build up a "sleeve" that covers either side of the ferrules up to the point where you can no longer see any damage. Let the glue cure completely before continuing.

7. Lathe the splice to get it as close to the original diameter of the rod blank as you can. This requires using a lathe specially designed for fishing rods; if you don't have such a lathe, you can use fine sandpaper instead. Whichever method you use, work slowly.

Do not bend the rod while doing this, as this will split the epoxy sleeve.

8. Wrap the ends of the ferrules, and the epoxy sleeve, to match the wrapping around the rod guides. Once the wrappings are in place, coat them with a thin epoxy resin or polymer.

If the rod broke near enough to a guide, you can move the guide over the splice before wrapping the ferrules.
You can also further disguise the break by adding decorative wrappings elsewhere on the rod.

Method 2 of 3: Fixing a Broken Rod Tip

1. Inspect the rod to see exactly what's been broken. If the damage is to the tip top alone (broken or grooved guide ring), you can simply replace the tip top with a new one. If the damage is to the rod blank at the tip, you'll have to cut the rod tip cleanly as close to the end as you can.

2. Remove the old tip top. If you didn't have to cut the rod to remove the old tip top, you can remove it by applying heat to the glue holding it onto the rod tip and twisting gently to remove it. If the tip won't come off, you'll have to cut the rod at the end of the tip top as though the rod itself had broken there.

Avoid using too much heat, or you might damage the rod tip itself.

3. Measure the tip of the rod for a new tip top. You'll need a tip gauge, which is a card or piece of metal with holes. Insert the rod through each hole until you get a tight fit; whichever gauge size that hole is will be the size of tip top you need.

4. Glue the new tip top on. Apply the glue to the rod tip, then affix the new tip top, gently twisting it into place so that it lines up with the other rod guides.

As the tip top guide is more prone to wear than the other guides, if you have to replace the tip top, you should get a replacement with a guide ring of either tungsten carbide or aluminum oxide, both of which are more resistant to grooving than steel. They are more susceptible to side impact damage (crushing), however.

Method 3 of 3: Fixing a Broken Rod Guide

1. Measure the diameter of the broken guide. You want a new guide with the same diameter as the original guide. (This is particularly important if the guide is the guide nearest the rod on a spinning reel, which is particularly large to accommodate line coming off the reel during a cast.)

2. Heat the epoxy sealing the guide wrappings.

3. Cut the wrappings on either side of the guide with a razor blade. Cut the wrappings on top of or on the edges of the guide feet if you can. Avoid cutting into the rod blank.

4. Remove the old guide and the rest of the guide wrappings.

5. Put the new guide in place. Be sure to line it up with the other guides so that its bottom center aligns with the bottom centers of the guides on either side of it.

6. Wrap the feet of the new guide to secure it. Check the alignment of the new guide with the other guides a final time before coating the new wrappings with epoxy resin or polymer to seal them in place.

Tips

If, after reading the above instructions, you find it too challenging to fix a broken rod yourself, you can take your rod to a professional repairer to have it fixed for you. You can find one through your local sporting goods store or on the Internet.
Instead of repairing your rod to close to its original length, you can take a rod that broke 1/3 to 1/2 the distance from the handle to the tip and convert the tip section into an ice fishing rod.

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How to Choose Fishing Line?

4/14/2015

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Fishing line is probably the most important component in a fisherman’s arsenal, not just because it is what you will bring the fish in on, but because it is on the line that you present lures and bait. Line makes a huge difference in the quality of your presentation and catching success. There are a wide-range of line types available which are designed to work particularly well in particular conditions. Get to know which line is best for which type of fishing and which fishing environment to give yourself the best possible chances of success out on the water.

Method 1 of 4: Understanding the Basics

1. Get the appropriate strength line. Before you choose a line, be clear about what kind of fishing you are taking on. Fishing lines have a pound-test strength, which can go from one pound all the way up to 75. Choosing which lbs test line you are going to use depends on what fish you are looking for. But as a rule of thumb, the smaller the line the narrower it’s diameter, so the less likely it is to put off the fish.

The lbs test refers to amount of force the line should be able to withstand at its weakest point.
It does not meant that you cannot catch a fish bigger than 12lbs on a 12lbs test line.
You can use the drag on your reel to help you to do this

2. Get the right line for freshwater fishing. As well as getting the right strength line, you should also choose a line that best matches the water you will be fishing in. Because freshwater is less dense than saltwater, freshwater lines will be generally have larger diameters and lower line densities than saltwater lines, in order to improve flotation.

3. Get the right line for saltwater fishing. Saltwater fishing line will generally be designed for quick accurate casts that can travel long distances. If you take a freshwater line saltwater fishing, it won’t help you to get the results you are hoping for. With the denser saltwater you can use a line with a smaller diameter without compromising on floatation.

4. Use monofilament line as your basic standard line. There are a number of different types of line which are constructed in different ways with different strengths and weakness. Monofilament line is the most popular line for most uses, as it is thin and strong. You can get monofilament line that is of a very narrow diameter which will be less intrusive in the water, but doesn’t lose its pound-test strength.

Monofilament line is relatively inexpensive, and this contributes to its popularity.
It will break down over time when exposed to direct sunlight, so look to replace it every six months or a year.

Method 2 of 4: Fishing Offshore

1. Use high-viz line for offshore fishing with multiple lines. Different colours and visibilities of line work well in different situations. High-viz lines are most often used for offshore fishing as they make it easier to keep track of your lines. If you need an instant read on the position of your lines, such as when offshore trolling or kite fishing, then high-viz line is often the best choice.

Different people will have had different experience with different colours, so always ask around and see what seems to be working well in particular areas.

2. Consider a ‘metered’ or ‘indicator’ line for offshore trolling. Another alternative to a high-viz line is what is known as a ‘metered’, or ‘indicator’ line. These lines have sections of coloured line of varied number, but of short and equal lengths. The colour changes make it easy to set lures at particular measurements when you are offshore trolling.

3. Use a strong monofilament line for deep sea fishing. If you are graduating to serious offshore fishing for huge tuna or marlin, then you want a line with a good pound-test strength. This kind of fishing takes you a long way from shore, so you need a reliable line that can handle the pressure of big fish. A monofilament line with a 20 lbs-test strength should do the job.

A gold high-viz line will help you keep track of the line.

Method 3 of 4: Fishing Inshore

1. Use a braided line for strength and abrasion resistance. In contrast to monofilament line, braided lines generally have a wider diameter, and are best suited for taking on larger fish in murkier waters where visibility is less important. Braided line is made up from woven fibres that give it incredible strength, as well as durability, and high abrasion resistance. Fishing in thick cover or muddy water will diminish the visibility of the braided line.

They also have no stretch, so you can feel more at the end of your line than you might with a monofilament line.

2. Choose a low-viz line. Traditionally, low visibility lines of green, bronze and brown are used for inshore fishing. Moss green is great for fishing in an area with heavy weeds in the water. The muddy substrate and off-colour water help to obscure the line so it disappears in water and the fish don’t notice it so easily.

3. For a line with good abrasion resistance but lower visibility choose a fluorocarbon line. Braided lines have excellent abrasion resistance to get over rocks and snags without breaking, but fluorocarbon line is also a good choice for this. It is much less visible than a braided line, and like braided line does not stretch, so you still have better feel than with a monofilament line.

4. Use a braided line to cut through weeds. Often fish like Bass will retreat into the weeds and be hard to reach for your cast, as the line can get caught up the greenery, stalks and weeds above and below the water’s surface. Using a braided line is the best way to fish in these conditions, as braided line cut really cut through those weeds with a minimum of fuss.

5. Use a ‘metered’ or ‘indicator’ line for jigging. Line with coloured sections are great for jigging in shore, as they give you a good reference point for depth. You can carry out precision vertical jigging by using the changing colours to wind up a particular depth after casting

Method 4 of 4: Fishing in Clear Water and Good Weather

1. Use a fluorocarbon line. If you are going fishing in light cover, clear water, or rocky terrain, often a fluorocarbon line is the best choice. It is much less visible than braided line, and has excellent abrasion resistance to get around rocks and logs. Fluorocarbon line is, in fact, almost invisible under water as it has a light refractive index that closely matches that of water, so the light passes through the line without reflecting back.

Fluorocarbon line will not weaken in the same way that monofilament line does.
It is also stretches less, so you will have greater sensitivity on your line.

2. Use a clear line. A clear blue fluorescent line is absolutely perfect for fishing in the sunshine. Under the water it will remain clear so the fish can’t see it, but the light from above the water will reflect off of it so that you will be able to see it from above the water. You being able to see the line and keep track of it when the fish can’t is a good start.

3. Use a gold high-viz monofilament line when you need to see multiple lines. If you are out fishing and you have numerous lines out, it can be hard to keep track of them all, especially if the sun is reflective off the water strongly. Gold monofilament line is a good choice for these conditions, but it will be more visible to the fish than a fluorocarbon or clue blue fluorescent line.

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How to Fix a Broken Fishing Rod?

How to Choose Fishing Line?

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